I collected Russell and Sharon of Ohio, USA, last week from the harbour in Richards Bay. They were on a cruise with the Azamara, and Russell had always known about the historical Battlefields of KZ Natal, and wanted the benefit of a guided tour. Luckily for me they found my website and contacted me.
We arranged to meet at the harbour, and then headed out to historic Battlefields of Isandlwana, Fugitives Drift and Rorke’s Drift. Many Richards Bay guests like to cover the tour in a day but Russell and Sharon decided that having never seen Africa before they would sacrifice one nights sail down to Durban and opt for the more leisurely two day version.
We drove through rural Zululand, up and down its 10000 hills. They marvelled at the scale and size of the place, its untouched natural beauty with vistas as far as the eye can see. We drove through typical African villages, peaceful and slow moving, with school kids walking to and from school, waving as we passed, elderly ladies in their colourful dresses carrying goods on their heads. We shared roads with cattle, goats and sheep. We drove through the mighty Valley of the Kings, burial sites of Zulu royalty over the centuries.
Richard had said that all he wanted to do was to stand on the famous battle grounds and get a feel for the atmosphere and drama of the sites. At the end of the day we travelled the short distance to our overnight stop at the converted one hundred year old farmhouse close to Rorke’s Drift, known as the Elands View Guest Lodge, with its magnificent views over one of Africa’s great valleys. Secure and safe with own en suite rooms, pool, honesty bar, wholesome farmhouse meals, and typical South African hospitality, this is one of the preferred accommodation venues for battlefield visitors from around the world. Sitting on the patio after dinner we marvelled at the pitch black sky, silver stars, milky way and a good sighting of the Southern Cross. A good nights sleep was had in the stillness and tranquillity of rural Africa.
The next morning it was off to Fugitives Drift where the Queens Colour was famously lost and found and VC’s were awarded in attempts to save it and to get survivors over the river to safety. Next it was Rorke’s Drift for a walk around the famous hospital and store where the fierce fighting took place, a look at the lovely museum, Zulu burial pits and British memorials. We stood on the grounds of one of the most famous battles in British and Zulu history. We spoke about the intense battle, the bravery and suffering of both sides, the awarding of 11 VC’s and despaired at how such brutality and bloodshed could have been unleashed in this tranquil and almost sacred land. After a toasted sandwich at the local cafe on site we headed back to meet the ship in Durban with a brief detour along Durban’s beautiful Golden Mile beachfront and getting to the harbour at 17.00.